This book explores the combination of capital’s changing composition and labour’s subjective agency to examine whether the waning days of the ‘sweatshop’ have indeed begun. Focused on the garment and footwear sectors, it introduces a universal logic that governs competition and reshapes the chain. By analysing workers’ collective action at various sites of production, it observes how this internal logic plays out for labour who are testing the limits of the social order, stretching it until the seams show. By examining the most valorised parts of underdeveloped sectors, one can see where capital is going and how it is getting there. These findings contribute to ongoing efforts to establish workers’ rights in sectors plagued by poverty and powerlessness, building fires and collapses. With this change and a capable labour movement, there’s hope yet that workers may close the gap.